The Idea
Champaign was home from 1978 to 1991 (ages 3 to 16). For many years I've toyed with the idea of going back there. Yes it's a haul but it's not really any further away than Chicago and I've been there for weekend trips. It would be nice to see the house where I grew up and do all of the things that I used to do. Specifically:
- Walk past our old house
- Drive by my old schools
- Go to the Champaign library
- Go to the Urbana library
- Go to that random park out in the country that had the statue
- Have breakfast at the White Horse Inn
- Get pizza from Papa Del's
- Get a croissant from the Art Mart
You can see the problem: the trip is 100% based on memories of my childhood. I don't really have anything to "do" there. Champaign was just a place where my family lived, we're not from there and we don't have any roots there. That's a lot of driving to go to a library and eat a croissant. Plus there was the "you can't go home again" factor - what were the odds that the Champaign of my memory would be the Champaign of today?
And now for something completely different, as you know my current drug of choice is visiting Frank Lloyd Wright houses. I've been working off this list, and the breakdown is:
- Places way far away that I just don't have a reason or desire to travel to right now (example: California).
- Places within reasonable driving distance, which I've put a decent dent into.
- Wisconsin and Chicago - there's a large concentration up there, but it's a bit far so I can't get to those right now. If my craze continues then I might make a once a year FLW bender trip to start knocking those back, but my travel dance card is full right now.
- The "does not fit into any of the above categories" houses. That list includes Lafayette IN and Springfield IL. Both are too far off the beaten path to fold into a CHI trip.
Oh...you know what's right on the beaten path between Lafayette and Springfield? And if I'm going there anyway might as well stop by Kankakee on the way home. These three houses are all between 60-90 minutes of the fair city of Champaign.
Once I added FLW to the mix, Champaign made total sense as a destination. I could hardly believe it.
(P.S. I won't talk very much about the FLW visits in this post...they get their own post tomorrow)
The Plan
Thursday night: drive to Lafayette
Friday: take the earliest tour of the Lafayette house, then drive to Champaign. Kick around.
Saturday: have a lazy morning in Champaign, drive to the Springfield house in the afternoon, go back to Champaign.
Sunday: head up to Kankakee for the final house tour, go home.
As I got further into planning, I realized that it made more sense to break up the drive to Lafayette into two parts to minimize nighttime driving.
The Complication
On Wednesday, the Springfield house sent out an email saying that all Saturday tours were cancelled due to a staffing shortage. I was bummed, because out of the three houses it was the one that I wanted to see the most, and also the one that is furthest from home, so the odds were high that if I couldn't do it on this trip I never would. Luckily they were doing tours on Friday and Sunday, so I was able to rebook for Friday afternoon. That meant a busy Friday and then a totally free Saturday to see the sights of Champaign.
Then the other shoe dropped. A work project that was supposed to wrap up before I left was dragging, and it was clear that I was going to need work on Friday. I wasn't sure how that was going to fit in to a busy day. I grudgingly packed my work laptop.
Wheels Up
On Thursday afternoon I hit the road. I arrived in Somewhere Indiana and checked into a dreary chain hotel (cost: $40 after points). So far this trip was exactly like every business trip that I made in my 20's...get to my destination in the dark and check into a hotel that's like every other hotel. It was a bit depressing.
I woke up very early on Friday and took care of the work that had come in so far. I did a search for wifi spots in Lafayette and found that the entire downtown and parks have free city wifi. It made sense to go to Lafayette way earlier than I needed to and get out of the depressing hotel. I sent reminders to everyone that I still needed info from and hit the road.
I wheeled into Lafayette and hit the park which was much better scenery than the hotel. The biggest piece of work that I needed had come in, so I was able to check that off the list. Phew! I sent more nags, shut down my laptop, and went into vacation mode. I set off to get my first FLW hit of the trip.
After the tour was over, the rest of the info that I needed for work crawled into my inbox so I returned to the park and knocked it out.
Now it was lunchtime and I knew exactly where I was headed. When I was looking into Champaign restaurants, I turned up La Bamba ("burritos as big as your head") which I vaguely remembered. Imagine my surprise that they were also in Lafayette and Springfield so I had my choice of locations. Also their menu includes "normal portion size" burritos so I was able to get a taste of the old days without having to commit to an enormous meal.
Now it was time to get back on the road for the three hour drive to Springfield. The time flew and I arrived at my destination. I got there a bit early but I didn't have a good plan of what to do, so I ended up walking around the neighborhood and killing time in the gift shop. I did the tour and then was wheels up again for my final destination.
Life in Champaign
I stayed in an Airbnb that was very close to our old house. I took a long walk the first night all around the old hood. It was 100% identical to my memories.
My biggest memory of my childhood is walking EVERYWHERE as though cars hadn't been invented yet. My other memory was that everything was "one mile" away. Sure enough my memory was correct! A lot of the places that I associated with my childhood really were one mile away. The other thing is that a Champaign mile felt much shorter than an "anywhere else" mile. Maybe because I was a lot smaller when I first started walking these streets? Or because it's so flat and the scenery is so pleasant? It really was easier to walk than to drive.
I'm not kidding that my agenda for the morning was to go to my old schools and the libraries. The Champaign library has had a major upgrade (it's TWO STORIES now people). Later that morning I got in the car and racked up a whopping 15 MILES driving all over town. The Urbana library is comfortingly exactly the same as it was back in my day.
The lowlight of the visit was driving around the U of I campus.
Champaign isn't a large town, but I feel like that's where 99.9% of the
population was. It was very crowded.
In the afternoon I made tracks for "the random park out in the country with the statue". My memory is that sometime toward the end of our Champaign residency my parents and I went out to a park in a country for a picnic. There was a really cool statue there. It was far, far away and I remember that it was called Monticello Park.
Google wasn't turning up a Monticello Park. Of course I could have asked my parents, but what's the fun in that. A list of top 10 Champaign attractions said Allerton Park, which is in Monticello IL, 20 minutes away from Champaign. It wasn't ringing a bell but I saw a picture that I thought might be my statue and so I went to check it out.
So what about my "far, far away" memory? 20 minutes is a very short distance where I live but a loooooong ways away by Champaign standards. I went out into the country, turned into the park and YES THERE WAS THE STATUE!!! But there was no place to park so I continued down the road...wow it was a really long road. I finally found the visitors parking lot and got out of the car...oh. Allerton Park is not a "one statue" kind of a place.
Ya gotta love it when early 20th century millionaires build massive estates out in the country with miles and miles of sculpture gardens and then leave their estates to the nearest university to open up to the public. And then some kid who gets taken there many times condenses the memory into one visit and one statue.
How had I forgotten about the goldfish maze?
Hey goldfish!
Or the Fu garden?
This is a fu dog, which will either horrify you or bring back oddly comforting memories of your childhood.
Champaign Eats
From my "to-do" list.
- Have breakfast at the White Horse Inn
- Get pizza from Papa Del's
- Get a croissant from the Art Mart
I've had the experience before of having a great food experience and then returning years later to have a so-so food experience. I was prepared for the Champaign food experience to fall flat.
Right off the bat, the White Horse Inn was a bust. It closed some time ago. I drove by the building but saw nothing that looked familiar.
You've heard me trash talk Papa John's pizza in this space many times. That's because my "pizza papa" is Papa Del's. Our standard order was a thin crust with sausage and mushrooms.
A few years ago when I was daydreaming about Champaign, I checked to see if they were still in business. Not only were they alive and kicking, but they had expanded their delivery area to the entire country. For a mere $80 you can have their pizza shipped on dry ice for you to bake at home (it's not $80 per pizza, that's the minimum charge for the packaging and one pizza, so ordering multiple pizzas is much more cost effective). I had mixed emotions. On the one hand it tickled me to know that there was nationwide demand for my childhood pizza joint. On the other hand...$80 pizza? Eh, on the other hand $80 is cheaper than a trip to Champaign. Eh, on the other hand there's a pizza shop on every corner.
On Friday night around 6:30 I called in my order. They said it would be a two hour wait. Uh...no.
On Saturday I tried again and called at 5. The call went straight to hold. I decided that I would hold for 5 minutes tops and if no one picked up then I would abandon my pizza dreams. Two minutes later a real live human took my order and the wait time was only one hour. Score!
I got my pizza and a salad and drove the mile back to the Airbnb.
Oh gawd it was everything. Exactly like I remembered except a thousand times better. After a few slices I tackled the salad. I was expecting the standard pizza shop limpness, but it was crisp and fresh and the ranch dressing was to die for. I had craftily brought ziplock bags with me so that I had an easy way to bring the leftovers home in the cooler.
On Sunday morning my last stop was The Art Mart, which I remember as the Home of The Epic Chocolate Croissants. The thing is that I wasn't particularly hungry at the time and in the end I decided to leave the croissants for my next visit if there ever is one. But if you're in the area it's a very cool cafe/store.
I pulled out of the parking lot, drove past my childhood house one last time, and hit the road for Kankakee.
Let's Wrap It Up
"You can't go home again"...unless your home is Champaign. By far the best part of the trip was seeing so many familiar sights that were largely unchanged from my childhood. The second best part was unlocking my missing memory of Allerton Park.
There's a lot more to Champaign than sculpture gardens and pizza, but that was what I had time for.
Would I recommend dropping everything and going to Champaign? If it's not nearby and you didn't grow up there, maybe not so much. If it's in your neck of the woods, then yes. If you need a place to hang your hat while you're on a midwest FLW bender, then it's also a yes.
Anyone else out there with no ties to their hometown? Ever been back for a visit? Who's been to Champaign?
See you tomorrow to talk FLW.
What a lovely recap; that pizza looks delish and I'm SO glad it lived up to your expectations and memory.
ReplyDeleteI actually live about 1.5 hours from my childhood home and went back to visit last summer. There isn't much to pull me there at this point and while it triggers very happy memories, it also feels sad in a way. Everything seems smaller and I have no real connections to the space (my parents and siblings live elsewhere) so going "home" is bittersweet as my "home" is now in a new location with completely different people since after leaving my childhood home, I moved with my parents to a different province, went to university, moved again, got married and had kids. Also, some of the buildings that were a big part of my life have been demolished or renovated which, again, feels bittersweet.
Oh no! I know what you mean. I can live without The White Horse Inn, but it was everything to see that the neighborhood and our old house were exactly the same.
DeleteWhat a fantastic trip down memory lane! I love that everything was unchanged...it's kind of comforting, isn't it? Did you send some of the photos to your parents?
ReplyDeleteI went back to Scotland where I spent my early childhood until I was 8 years old. My goodness, everything looked much smaller (and unfortunately, much uglier) than I remembered it!
Yes my parents got more photos then they could have imagined. That's exactly why I didn't ask them about Allerton Park because I wanted it to be a surprise. In the end it was as much of a surprise for me as it was for them.
DeleteWhat you lived in Scotland?????? What else haven't you told us????????
I loved every second of reading this, Birchy! What a cool little trip you designed for yourself. It's so interesting to go back to "the old neighbourhood" and see it through adult eyes.
ReplyDeleteTHAT PARK. Wow. That is really something, and that dog *may* haunt me for a while. The maze is so interesting too. What a fun trip. I'm glad your pizza was everything you wanted and more, and also I am thrilled they are doing well, but $80 pizza? Hmmm. Not for me but obviously for someone.
I don't know much at all about that area of the world. I've been to Chicago, but briefly, for a conference, and that's all I've seen of the midwest. Oh, and Minneapolis airport, but I'm pretty sure that doesn't count for anything.
Hey if $80 pizza is a thing, then I'm glad that Papa Del's is getting the action. Champaign is quite different from Chicago. Once you get south it's all farmland for a while, and then it's a quaint university town.
DeleteThis was such a delight to read! I am so glad that the trip to Champaign stood up to your memories! The sculpture park is such a fun find. And it makes me laugh that everything is "a mile away." The pizza, too! How wonderful that it was actually good! I went to my hometown last summer and it was a mix of good and really sad, so I am very happy to hear that this worked out so well for you. And also glad that work turned out not to be too huge of a pain.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the FLW segment!
Honestly I think that most of the food memories that I go chasing after turn out to be disappointing, but Papa Del's is the one exception. I finished the leftovers yesterday and now there is a void in my life.
DeleteOh, I loved this. I grew up in a suburb of Chicago, and went to music camp at University of Illinois for five summers in a row. I can't say I saw much else of Champagne, other than the campus, though. But I also went to Springfield many times for all-state music events. So this isn't exactly my old stomping grounds, but it is my home state. Your trip sounds incredible- even without the FLW houses it sounds worth it (but I'm sure FLW was amazing as well.) I love the park, and the pizza. I really, really want to go back to the town where I grew up. I haven't been back in... fifteen years? Anyway... I'm looking forward to part 3!
ReplyDeleteHey were you there before 1991? Maybe we were close to being in the same place at the same time. I know what you mean about not seeing anything besides the campus. I traveled a lot for work in my 20s and I saw...hotels and factories. Such as waste.
DeleteOh, what a lovely visit! I haven't actually been to Champaign, but it just seems like such a great college town! I am a little surprised that the pizza was good because in my experience with college towns, the pizza is always subpar because students just want cheap and easy. Color me shocked!
ReplyDeleteMy mother moved out of my hometown a few years ago and I sometimes go back to hang out with my high school friends and it's...weird. It feels weird to have to get a hotel room. It feels weird that there are new places and businesses that just didn't exist when I was there. It feels like someone has taken my memories and shaken them up a little bit.
I am looking forward to the FLW part of the recap, too. I feel so lucky that we're getting so much Birchie this week.
My guess is that Papa Del's isn't catering to the students, they're after the professors! The pizza was a bit on the spendy side. Not shocking, but it was $20 for a medium pizza and $10 for a side salad.
DeleteOne of the best parts of the trip was being able to stay in a house in my old hood. It would have been weird to be in a hotel.
I love that you revisited Champaign it was just as you remembered! Whoa, that pizza looks SO DARN GOOD! I am glad it worked out! I think I have been to CU twice? Or maybe once, with a friend who was from there.
ReplyDeleteAll my fam still lives in my home town so I am back often! I love seeing how things have changed.
The pizza was epic! I finally finished the leftovers.
DeleteHow fun to go back to your old town! We had a really good pizza place near my hometown that set the bar very high for anywhere I've ever been. Isn't that neat when there's a place like that? Gosh, I spent so much time in the public library as a kid...it would be neat to go back and see if anything has changed.
ReplyDeleteIt was a fun trip. I'm glad that I finally did it. Epic pizza and good libraries - that's home!
DeleteWhat a fun trip (down memory lane). Thanks for taking us along... and I had to chuckle about the "for $80 you can have their pizza shipped on dry ice for you to bake at home"... haha. Is there any pizza that is THAT good? (I am glad you enjoyed it though. "Food from the past" does have a nostalgic taste to it, doesn't it?
ReplyDeleteThis was so much fun to read! I am so glad that Papa Del's knocked it out of the park for you - it's such a letdown when a cherished memory is, well, tarnished, by a more recent, not so great experience. And, so wonderful that you found your statue(s)! And that it was so MUCH more than anticipated. Can't wait to read about the FLW houses. :)
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed this post very much. I've only been to CA and the east coast of the US (never to the midwest) but want to see more of our country in the future. My hometown is in Russia and I haven't been back since 2007. I often wonder what it would be like to go back and wander those streets.
ReplyDelete