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Sunday, October 5, 2025
Let's Go Places: New Brunswick
Continuing the saga of the Great Maritimes Bender from last time, it's Thursday and we are wheels up from Charlottetown PEI headed to Fredericton NB. I wonder what adventures we will find along the way.
Time wise NB really got the short end of the stick for this trip. All that I knew going in is that Fredericton is the capital city and Google told me that Hopewell Rocks was the #1 place to go. I was in a completist mood, so I didn't want to skip it, but NS and PEI had priority.
Thursday Afternoon - Let's Stare at Rocks!
You can't go to Hopewell Rocks any old time that you feel like it, since there is a small matter of a 40 foot tide. When I saw that the driving time from Charlottetown to Hopewell would have me arriving at the start of low tide, I got right on it.
I paid the admission fee and took in the eagle eye views from the lookouts near the visitors center.
You can pay to take a shuttle or do a 15 minute walk for free. Guess which option I chose?
(No shade on the shuttle option. Between the shuttle and the access points for the beach, Hopewell has decent options for folks with limited mobility who want to go to epic places in nature.)
As I walked, I wondered how the trail was going to get me down to the ocean floor. There is an (unpictured) set of stairs that make the descent relatively easy.
I was soon in my normal Maritimes environment. Walking on the ocean floor and staring at rocks as one does.
Walking conditions were much tidier than Medford Beach.
At the end of the public area there was a walking ramp, so the return to ground level was easy.
I finally tore myself away from the rocks and drove a few hours to Fredericton.
Let's Rate the Airbnb!
The Fredericton unit was a one bedroom apartment on the top floor of a massive historic home that had been converted into apartments.
Remember how sometimes I've joked about needing to grade on a curve? Back when I was in college, the professors in my core classes used to increase everyone's grades by raising the highest score to 100. For example, if the highest score on a test was a 95, they would increase everyone's grade by 5 points. My friends and I used to play a game we called "screw the curve" where we would try to get the highest grade possible so that there was no curve. The classes were hard, but with a little diligence in studying it could be done.
All of this is to say that the host of the Fredericton Airbnb screwed the curve. This was a clear 100%.
The pillows are in the way so you can't see it, but let me assure you that there was a nightstand with reading light on the other side of the bed.
The kitchen was well laid out, and bonus points for the skylight.
Best of all, there was a reading nook. The bookshelves were well stocked with fiction, personal development, and finance selections.
But there is always something that is "off" in every Airbnb. There's got to be a flaw here somewhere...what nit can we find to pick?????
It was quite a search. The best I could come up with is that there was no toilet paper holder.
After getting settled, it was time for dinner. I had made some noises to Elisabeth and Belle that it would be fun to have poutine in every province, but after two nights in a row of pretty hearty restaurant dinners, I just couldn't take another big meal. It's a given that this will not be my last visit to NB, so I'll just have to get poutine next time.
Instead I had a picturesque walk to the grocery store.
I picked up breakfast fixings and some fine, fine grocery store sushi.
Which I ate on my private rooftop deck. Because of course the unit had a private rooftop deck!
Friday Morning: Let's Explore Fredericton
I woke up fairly early and did the coffee thing.
After sunrise I packed up and went out to explore. Hike and bike path that led to a bridge - check.
Cute flower sculpture on the embankment - check.
Bridge views galore - check!
We've already checked so many boxes, but there was another one that doesn't show in a photo. The people were super friendly. When I walked down the street in Halifax, at best I got eye contact and a tight smile, and I picked up a touch of frostiness in PEI. But in Fredericton, the norm was a big smile, a warm "hi how are you?", and a few rounds of chit chat.
It wasn't all fun and games in Fredericton. Someone was having a bad day.
A very bad day. The truck had gotten stuck before I arrived, and was still there when I left a few hours later. One passerby exclaimed "Not again! That's the fourth one since I moved here!!!"
But enough reveling in nature. We have a legislature to visit!
When I was doing my legislature planning, my prediction was that NB would take the lead since the website said that they had tours every half hour. However, something changed because the website now said that tours were self guided only. Sigh.
I checked in and got my v-card.
There was an information kiosk with an overview and facts, but that's never as good as an enthusiastic human being telling you stories.
The chandeliers in the legislative chamber are called the North Lady and the South Lady, and once upon a time the South Lady played Phantom of the Opera and crashed.
What the NB Legislature lacked in guided tours it made up for by being the only Maritime Legislature to have a dome. OK, OK, I know it's a small dome, but nevertheless it is a dome.
After the legislature, I walked around for a bit and then decided to leave town. As with PEI, there were so many other things that I could have done, but it was a choice between "do other things" and "spend more time with Elisabeth".
The best part was the WWI display. I once heard the term "Ladies from Hell" used to describe kilted troops. I never saw the phrase used in NB or NS (story to come), but it was definitely in my mind.
My recently developed Flag Nerdism noted a US flag on the premises (context: I am writing this in 2025, the year in which someone in my country with a big mouth has not been very nice to Canada). So far my 2025 US flag count in Canada is three, which was three more than I expected to find: one outside a hotel in Victoria, one seen in NS while we were driving to Peggy's Cove, and now one in the Government House.
Friday Afternoon - Let's Get Gone
It was time to head back to Nova Scotia. I wanted some snacks for the road, and if not for the time I spent with Elisabeth, I would have stopped by the grocery store or a convenience store. Now that I knew better, I did better and went to the dollar store.
I got my snacks, plus an unexpected bonus. I used to have pair of fluffy socks that I used as travel slippers, but I lost them sometime on the California trip. Ever since then I'd been doing without.
Now I had exactly what I wanted at a price that could not be beat. These little fox slipper socks and I are going to go places.
On paper the drive back to Elisabeth's was about five hours. I put the address into my GPS and put the pedal to the metal and was making good time. I started seeing signs for St. Johns, and I was confused because I didn't think it was on the route. I did what the GPS told me to do and found myself driving through town. Huh, some kind of short cut around the freeway?
Imagine my surprise when I abruptly found myself at the ferry dock. This was not in my game plan, and google said something about the crossing taking two hours, which was also not in my game plan. There were too many factors to consider - sailing schedules, whether you can just wheel up without a reservation, cost, time, yada yada yada that I was just not prepared to make on the fly. I told GPS to get me to Elisabeth's by land, which it did but the detour added at least an hour onto the drive.
Eventually I got back to Wolfville and pulled into Lighthouse HQ around dinner time. I was back with my friends. But that's a story for another day.
NB, I'm sorry that you got the short end of the stick, but I will be back! Who's been here? What's the nicest non-hotel stay that you've ever had? What was the last road trip that you've taken where GPS steered you wrong?
NB might have gotten the short end of the stick, but you made the most of it! Hopewell Rocks are stunning! I love that you walked instead of taking the shuttle. That Fredericton Airbnb looks absolutely perfect: reading nook, rooftop deck, and all those thoughtful touches! Now I'm curious about the price: was it budget-friendly or did it come with a little splurge?
BUDGET FRIENDLY!!! My total cost for one night was 150 USD, which is the cost per night that I aim for, but am rarely getting these days. I'm going to talk about this in my final post, but overall the Maritimes is a very budget friendly place. So yet another reason to go there, as if anyone needed an extra reason.
Wow, that staircase! I love natural, original woodwork like that, and its architectural design is so beautiful. That would have been the highlight of the tour for me. The Hopewell Rocks are their own natural architecture and another awesome sight. NB is, yet again, a place I've never been but was frequented by my parents on their selfish getaways. Sigh. Sorry about your GPS snafu. I constantly argued with mine, which tried to get me to take the turnpike everywhere. Finally, I discovered how to remove that option, and we get along much better now.
Don't get mad get even! Your parents didn't take you then but you can go now! The Maritimes is a fantastic getaway, and I can see how it might be a bit boring for the young 'uns.
I can't believe I didn't think ahead to warn you the GPS might take you via the ferry. Oops. We have friends that live in NB and they always come to NS via the ferry, but it is definitely more time consuming and costs more money. It is a cool experience, though. For many years I went on the ferry several times a year to visit my grandmother (who lived in SJ). We went as walk-ons so it was relatively cost effective. In an ironic but sweet twist of fate, I actually went to SJ to her funeral when she passed away as a walk-on via the boat. It felt very fitting <3
That's lovely that you got to take the ferry for her funeral.
I looked at the route so many times in advance and it never showed the ferry route. There must have been something going on with the roads that day that had it change up to the ferry.
The Air B & B definitely wins the prize (so far) with the book nook and the private rooftop terrace. It looks so charming. NB sounds like a wonderful place. The fox socks are such a great souvenir!
When I started reading this earlier today, a baby decided to projectile vomit on me, the carpet, the couch, and herself. It's been several hours but I'm back - I love that BnB. My best nonhotel stay is probably my stay in South Bend, for the simple reason that the owner is so kind and friendly,. has invited my kid to his future tailgates and it was FREE. (I did gift him with a giftcard). I agree that it's not as good as a human telling you stories, but then you managed to surprise me with a story of a chandelier pulling a Phantom of the Opera. Yikes. Phooey on the GPS run amuck story. Love all the pics, but that peacock made out of flowers really rocks. Hooray for replacement fuzzy socks that also double as super cute.
Well, only being there for 24 hours was an incentive to get out and on the town. But it would have been a great place for a reading retreat. The shelves were stocked with good stuff.
We have a railroad bridge over a parkway next to Onondaga Lake in Liverpool, NY that gets struck by trucks all the time. They even have The Onondaga Parkway Bridge Facebook page. They have tried many things to get the trucks to stop (about 26 signs, flashing lights, painted it orange, reduced to one lane from two, put pilons all the way down the lane approaching it, an electronic sign with bridge height) but it still happens.
Thanks for stopping by Joyce!!! I feel like there must be a lot of cases where the height of the truck is close to the height of the opening of the bridge and most of the time the truck still fits under the bridge. Or the drivers are under pressure to get the truck to its destination on time and aren't allowed to reroute. It's a tough job for sure.
I have my GPS permanently set to "no ferry route" because it wants me to take the ferry across Lake Michigan every time I go to Michigan from Wisconsin, which is not a small number of times. I do not have the ferry budget that other GPS users have, I guess.
What lovely accommodations! I would have said screw the government buildings and just read in that nook the whole time. I suspect that's one of the many things that makes you a better traveler than I am.
I love taking the ferry when there is no other option - e.g.: my Lake Erie Islands and Vancouver Island. But if there's a choice to go by road, then that's what I'm doing! It's too much work to have to make reservations and get to the ferry on time, plus what you said about $$$. I can't imagine that it saves that much time.
Okay, I have to defend the GPS this time. Taking the ferry from Milwaukee, WI to Muskego, MI is about 2.5 hours, but is at least five hours by car (and sometimes more depending on Chicago traffic). The main issue is Chicago. The ferry is more reliable and much faster. I get why the GPS defaults to using the ferry, but it would cost me about $250 one way to take the ferry with my car. I am far too frugal for that!
$250 one way??????? And it's an extra 2.5 hours if you don't take the ferry? So you're saving $100 an hour if you don't take the ferry. I know driving through CHI is rough, but it's not "spend $100 an hour to get out of it" rough.
That is just the cutest little Airbnb ever! The reading nook looks so cozy.
OMG. That stuck truck. There is a historic bridge here that trucks get stuck under ALL THE TIME. Like, the 69th time this weekend. UGH. That one looks really bad!
Ha, my snis had a similar thing happen where her GPS took her to a ferry and she was surprised to see herself there. That stinks it added an hour on once you realized it!
That Air BnB definitely deserves a 100%! A book nook and a rooftop terrace?! Wonderful.
ReplyDeleteNB looks pretty fabulous. I love the rocks and the bridges.
Yay for cozy fox socks!
It was amazing. Even if there was nothing there, just staying in that Airbnb is reason enough to go.
DeleteNB might have gotten the short end of the stick, but you made the most of it! Hopewell Rocks are stunning! I love that you walked instead of taking the shuttle.
ReplyDeleteThat Fredericton Airbnb looks absolutely perfect: reading nook, rooftop deck, and all those thoughtful touches!
Now I'm curious about the price: was it budget-friendly or did it come with a little splurge?
BUDGET FRIENDLY!!! My total cost for one night was 150 USD, which is the cost per night that I aim for, but am rarely getting these days. I'm going to talk about this in my final post, but overall the Maritimes is a very budget friendly place. So yet another reason to go there, as if anyone needed an extra reason.
DeleteWow, that staircase! I love natural, original woodwork like that, and its architectural design is so beautiful. That would have been the highlight of the tour for me.
ReplyDeleteThe Hopewell Rocks are their own natural architecture and another awesome sight. NB is, yet again, a place I've never been but was frequented by my parents on their selfish getaways. Sigh.
Sorry about your GPS snafu. I constantly argued with mine, which tried to get me to take the turnpike everywhere. Finally, I discovered how to remove that option, and we get along much better now.
Don't get mad get even! Your parents didn't take you then but you can go now! The Maritimes is a fantastic getaway, and I can see how it might be a bit boring for the young 'uns.
DeleteI can't believe I didn't think ahead to warn you the GPS might take you via the ferry. Oops. We have friends that live in NB and they always come to NS via the ferry, but it is definitely more time consuming and costs more money. It is a cool experience, though. For many years I went on the ferry several times a year to visit my grandmother (who lived in SJ). We went as walk-ons so it was relatively cost effective.
ReplyDeleteIn an ironic but sweet twist of fate, I actually went to SJ to her funeral when she passed away as a walk-on via the boat. It felt very fitting <3
That's lovely that you got to take the ferry for her funeral.
DeleteI looked at the route so many times in advance and it never showed the ferry route. There must have been something going on with the roads that day that had it change up to the ferry.
What a beautiful place! I wonder what the story is behind that U.S. flag. From WWII maybe? It looks to have 48 stars…
ReplyDeleteLike Nance, I love the staircase. And that AirBnB is beautiful!
I didn't focus in on the number of stars. Unfortunately there was no display or context to explain the flags.
DeleteThe Air B & B definitely wins the prize (so far) with the book nook and the private rooftop terrace. It looks so charming. NB sounds like a wonderful place. The fox socks are such a great souvenir!
ReplyDeleteIt was worth coming to NB just to stay in that Airbnb!
DeleteWhen I started reading this earlier today, a baby decided to projectile vomit on me, the carpet, the couch, and herself. It's been several hours but I'm back - I love that BnB. My best nonhotel stay is probably my stay in South Bend, for the simple reason that the owner is so kind and friendly,. has invited my kid to his future tailgates and it was FREE. (I did gift him with a giftcard). I agree that it's not as good as a human telling you stories, but then you managed to surprise me with a story of a chandelier pulling a Phantom of the Opera. Yikes. Phooey on the GPS run amuck story. Love all the pics, but that peacock made out of flowers really rocks. Hooray for replacement fuzzy socks that also double as super cute.
ReplyDeleteErnie, if I had a magic wand I would teleport you to the Airbnb for a week of rest. You've earned it after the projectile vomiting episode.
DeleteMy eyes bugged out when I saw that book nook. I wouldn't have wanted to do anything else but lay and read. I'm impressed you actually DID THINGS!
ReplyDeleteWell, only being there for 24 hours was an incentive to get out and on the town. But it would have been a great place for a reading retreat. The shelves were stocked with good stuff.
DeleteWe have a railroad bridge over a parkway next to Onondaga Lake in Liverpool, NY that gets struck by trucks all the time. They even have The Onondaga Parkway Bridge Facebook page. They have tried many things to get the trucks to stop (about 26 signs, flashing lights, painted it orange, reduced to one lane from two, put pilons all the way down the lane approaching it, an electronic sign with bridge height) but it still happens.
ReplyDeleteThanks for stopping by Joyce!!! I feel like there must be a lot of cases where the height of the truck is close to the height of the opening of the bridge and most of the time the truck still fits under the bridge. Or the drivers are under pressure to get the truck to its destination on time and aren't allowed to reroute. It's a tough job for sure.
DeleteI have my GPS permanently set to "no ferry route" because it wants me to take the ferry across Lake Michigan every time I go to Michigan from Wisconsin, which is not a small number of times. I do not have the ferry budget that other GPS users have, I guess.
ReplyDeleteWhat lovely accommodations! I would have said screw the government buildings and just read in that nook the whole time. I suspect that's one of the many things that makes you a better traveler than I am.
I love taking the ferry when there is no other option - e.g.: my Lake Erie Islands and Vancouver Island. But if there's a choice to go by road, then that's what I'm doing! It's too much work to have to make reservations and get to the ferry on time, plus what you said about $$$. I can't imagine that it saves that much time.
DeleteOkay, I have to defend the GPS this time. Taking the ferry from Milwaukee, WI to Muskego, MI is about 2.5 hours, but is at least five hours by car (and sometimes more depending on Chicago traffic). The main issue is Chicago. The ferry is more reliable and much faster. I get why the GPS defaults to using the ferry, but it would cost me about $250 one way to take the ferry with my car. I am far too frugal for that!
Delete$250 one way??????? And it's an extra 2.5 hours if you don't take the ferry? So you're saving $100 an hour if you don't take the ferry. I know driving through CHI is rough, but it's not "spend $100 an hour to get out of it" rough.
DeleteAhh! The rocks are so cool!
ReplyDeleteThat is just the cutest little Airbnb ever! The reading nook looks so cozy.
OMG. That stuck truck. There is a historic bridge here that trucks get stuck under ALL THE TIME. Like, the 69th time this weekend. UGH. That one looks really bad!
Ha, my snis had a similar thing happen where her GPS took her to a ferry and she was surprised to see herself there. That stinks it added an hour on once you realized it!